纺织英语.ppt

1、JosephsIntroductoryTextileScienceIntroductiontoTextilesnIntroductionnIndustrialDevelopmentnEconomicDevelopmentnTextileMarketsnTheFutureIntroductionnThe nozzle（管口，喷嘴）管口，喷嘴）of a rocket designed for the personnel launch system of an A.D.2019 mission to Mars and the fabrics from an A.D.50 Peruvian（秘鲁的）（

2、秘鲁的）mummy bundle（捆、束、包）（捆、束、包）may appear dissimilar(Figures 1,1 and 1.2),but they have a number of features in common.Both are stateoftheart textile products from their respective eras n耶稣诞生前叫耶稣诞生前叫“公元前（公元前（AD 拉丁文拉丁文Anno Domini 的缩写，意为的缩写，意为“主的生年主的生年”）”，耶稣诞生后耶稣诞生后 叫叫“公元后公元后”（BC 英文英文Before Christ 的缩写，

3、意为的缩写，意为“基督以前基督以前”）nA fiber is defined,in a very general way,as any product capable of being woven or otherwise made into a fabric.nThese definitions are quite broad,and it is often difficult for a textile technologist to delineate（描出（描出的外形，的外形，描绘，叙述）描绘，叙述）what is and is not a fiber or a textile.nFi

4、bers,the usual starting place for a study of textiles,may be agricultural products（such as cotton or wool)or units(such as nylon or polyester)manufactured in a chemical plant.nFibers may be spun into a strand,called a yarn,that can be used to knit a sweater,to sew two pieces of fabric together,or to

5、 weave a fabric.nFibers also may be made directly into a broad range of nonwoven fabrics such as felt(毡，毡制品毡，毡制品)for a hat or the underlayment for a modern highway.nFabric is a planar structure produced by interlacing yarns in processes such as weaving,knitting,knotting,and braiding,or by binding fi

6、bers together to form a structure.nFabrics can be dyed or printed,then treated with special finishes.The result is called dyed and finished fabric.nThis textbook introduces such a study by first categorizing products as fibers,yarns,fabrics,and dyed and finished textiles.nWithin these product classe

7、s,textiles are described by their primary end uses,most frequently by the primary textile markets:apparel,domestic,and industrial.nThe delineation of the products within these market categories is not precise.nSome statistics include all clothing products in the apparel classification;others place p

8、rotective clothing and military uniforms in the industrial textile category.nDomestic,or household,textiles include such products as towels,sheets,draperies,upholstery,and some carpets and rugs.The industrial textile market encompasses(包括包括)products as diverse as tire cord,filters,automotive upholst

9、ery,hot air balloons,and parachutes.nCarpets and floor coverings are such a large market in both the industrial and household sectors that the figures for floor coverings frequently are segregated as a fourth primary textile market.nThe textile properties of concern to the consumer in each of these

10、markets are likely to be quite different.nFor some apparel textiles,color and style may be more important than durability and requirements for care.Color and moisture absorbency may be important criteria to a consumer selecting a bath towel.nOn a global scale,sales of textile products manufactured a

11、broad and sold in the United States contribute significantly to the negative balance of trade,which is a component of the national debt.nWhile this is not a book on textile economics,an understanding of some facets of textile trade enhances comprehension of daily news about the textile and apparel i

12、ndustries.Industrial DevelopmentnKnowledge of the early use of textiles comes from archeologists who have discovered imprints(留下烙印，痕迹留下烙印，痕迹)and drawings of textiles from prehistoric times.Flax（亚麻）（亚麻）was used by the Swiss Lake Dwellers about 8000 B.C.,and fragments of flax fabrics from about 4500 B

13、.C.have been found.nStories of silk dating from the second century B.C.through the Crusades（十字（十字军东征）军东征）describe the fibers cultural and economic importance in the Far East and Europe.The Great Silk Road was a major trade route from China to the Mediterranean（地中海）（地中海）until political upheavals（剧变，动

14、乱）（剧变，动乱）in central Asia during the third century made the sea route to India more popular.nWool probably originated in central Asia.By 2000 B.C.,domesticated sheep were raised in Mesopotamia 美索不达米美索不达米亚亚(西南亚地区西南亚地区).Pile rugs probably were woven from the fiber before 500 B.C.The early Greeks wore w

15、ool,and Roman soldiers were supplied with wool garments during their occupation of England.nHe was financed by Spanish wool interests.He found cotton growing in the West Indies.And surely he was wearing a linen shirt at the timenThe textiles of Columbuss time were products of a cottage(村舍，小屋村舍，小屋)in

16、dustry that used small equipment located in a home or small shop.Production was limited and productivity was slow,but by the eighteenth century major changes were occurring.nThree factors are said to be responsible for the industrial Revolution(17701850):the discovery that iron could be smelted（精炼，冶

17、炼）（精炼，冶炼）by using coke（焦炭）（焦炭）,the invention of the steam engine,and the invention of textile machinery nJohn Kays flying shuttle(1733),James Hargreavess spinning jenny(1767),Richard Arkwrights waterpowered spinning machine with drafting rollers(1772).Samuel Cromptons cotton spinning mule(1779),and

18、Edmund Cartwrights power loom(1780).John Kays flying John Kays flying shuttleshuttlespinning jennyspinning jennySamuel Cromptons cotton spinning muleSamuel Cromptons cotton spinning muleEdmund Cartwrights power loomEdmund Cartwrights power loomnTo confine(禁闭，限制禁闭，限制)the new industry to England and d

19、iscourage the development of competition,the British restricted immigration and levied（征税，（征税，征收）征收）high tariffs（关税）（关税）on goods brought in from overseas nSamuel Slater is credited with being the father of American manufacturing.He immigrated to the United States from England disguised（伪装）（伪装）as a f

20、armer and,under the sponsorship of a Rhode Island merchant,built the Arkwright spinning machines from memory.His first mill opened in Pawtucket,Rhode Island,in December 1790.Additional textile mills soon were built in other New England states,and the textile industry of the United States flourished（

21、繁（繁荣，兴旺）荣，兴旺）.n2005-11-1902:20林达乔治华盛顿是美国的第一任总统。年月日，华盛顿在纽约宣誓就职，成为世界上第一个共和制大国的总统。这是他一生中最重要的时刻。在宣誓就职的时候，他身穿缀有银纽扣的棕色羊毛料上装，白色裤子。华盛顿是一个很注意小节的人。这一天，他挑选这一套制服别有一番深意：他的制服料子都是美国北方康涅狄格的纺织厂出产的粗布料子。n那个时候，两百年前，不要说美国不会织质地精细的布料，全世界除了英国都不会织。尽管人类织布已经有几千年的历史，织法却少有变化，都是小梭子的窄幅手工织机。年，英国的约翰凯依发明了飞梭，先结合水力，后来结合了瓦特发明的蒸汽机，纺织技术出

22、现了突破，英国工业革命由此开始。纺织工业是当时的龙头产业，带动了各行各业的突飞猛进，英国国力大增，成为世界第一强。而这第一强的基础就是纺织工业，那是当时的高技术产业。n英国当然想保持自己在这个高技术产业的垄断地位，于是，英国纺织工业的技术成为国王陛下最珍贵的机密，下令严加保护。英国所有纺织厂的技术人员都在海关登记在册，一律严禁出国。至于技术资料，一片纸也不许出口。英国生产的布料行销全国，北美盛产棉花羊毛，自己不会织成好布，只能卖给英国。华盛顿知道，这个局面必须改变。他身穿美国自己织出来的粗布料制服，出席总统就职典礼，就是想告诉国人：美国必须自己制造！n可是，高技术的赶超，谈何容易。大部分美国人

23、都是农夫，很多是文盲，想象不出机器织布。最好的办法是从英国挖技术人才。于是美国人几年前就在英国的纺织厂里传播消息，说有技术的人，在美国大有发展机会。可是英国海关却看得死死的，有此心也无此可能。华盛顿总统就职典礼的制服华盛顿总统就职典礼的制服n结果，有一个叫斯莱特（）的年轻人听进去了。他在纺织厂当学徒，用心地把所有技术细节记在心里，却不动声色，一点不声张。就在华盛顿就职总统的这一年年底，斯莱特学徒刚满师。他悄悄地登上了去美国的轮船，连自己的母亲都没有告诉。海关登记的时候他说是农田粗工。n华盛顿总统当然并不知道他的到来，他却和所有美国人一样，知道华盛顿身穿粗布制服宣誓就职的涵义。美国立即向他提供了

24、机会。罗德岛州一个叫布朗的商人对斯莱特说，听说你会造织布机，那么我出钱你来造，成功了利润归你。斯莱特就凭着脑子里默记的资料，用一年的时间，造出了美国第一台会运转的织布机。从此，美国生产的棉花羊毛自己会加工了，美国掌握了高技术。n现在美国的布朗大学就是以这位有远见有气魄的布朗先生名字命名。年，美国的第七任总统杰克森专门拜访了斯莱特。这位戎马生涯的总统恭恭敬敬地称斯莱特为“美国制造业之父”。从华盛顿到杰克森，美国总统们都明白，在世界各国纷纷走上工业革命之路的时候，竞争规则非常简单：谁制造谁强大。制造业是衡量国力的标准。n可是，那一代美国人还知道，竞争规则并非永远不变。等到有朝一日全世界都会制造的时

25、候，谁最强大由什么来决定呢？nBy the early 1900s the textile industry had begun to relocate to the southeastern United States.Many reasons have been given for the move.Among them were proximity to the cotton crop,lower wages,and streams capable of generating adequate power to operate water wheels.In the South,chea

26、p labor and capital were available and local governments provided tax incentives(鼓励，鼓励，刺激刺激)to attract industry.nTraditionally,the textile and apparel industries had consisted of small firms competing vigorously（精神旺盛的）（精神旺盛的）.Economics textbooks often used them as examples of perfect competition.By

27、the 1940s,some firms had been consolidated（巩固，加强）（巩固，加强）in an effort to increase profits through economics of scale.EconomicDevelopmentnIn the 1950s,J.Spencer Love began to acquire the firms that would become Burlington Industries.Thirty years later,in the 1980s,Bulington Industries and its competit

28、ors were restructured through mergers（合并）（合并）,acquisitions（购得，获得）（购得，获得）,and leveraged buyouts（融资收购）（融资收购）.nLarger firms can afford to modernize productions facilities and to fund new product development.Recent modernizations have focused on the installation of highly automated equipment that reduce

29、s the number of employees in production areas.nBut they required large numbers of skilled and semiskilled workers to keep them operatingnOver the years,however,as wages in the United States increased,textiles and apparel produced overseas by verylowwage workers became increasingly attractive to reta

30、ilers（零售（零售商）商）.TextileMarketsnFigure 1.3 traces the changes in consumption of fibers in the United States from 1940 to 1990.nChina was the major consumer followed by eastern Europe.India,United States,western Europe,Pakistan,and Brazil.The world economy is changing,and the textile industry is at th

31、e forefront of that change.nOn a per capita basis,250 million people each consumed 24 pounds of cotton,1.2 pounds of wool,39.3 pounds of manufactured fiber,and 2.2 pounds of fiber of other generic（一般（一般的）的）groups nThe countries from which those imports come include India,China,Taiwan,Hong Kong,and S

32、ri Lanka.Textile imports arc controlled to some degree by the Multifiber Agreement(MFA多种纤维协议多种纤维协议)of the General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade(GATT关贸总协定关贸总协定).nAlthough both brand names and trademarks from many areas of the world are found on the labels of textile products,much of the material is

33、sold under a generic（属的，类的，一般的）（属的，类的，一般的）fiber label.In many instances,the names used for fibers in the United Slates vary from those used abroad.nConsequently,it becomes even more important to understand the basic tenets(原则，宗旨，信条原则，宗旨，信条)of textile science and to rely on product knowledge,rather t

34、han the familiarity of a brand name,in making purchase decisions at the consumer level.nThe U.S.textile industry has sought to improve its competitive position with positive action,rather than by relying on import restrictions to increase sales of Americanmade goods.One successful program is the Cra

35、fted（工艺，手艺）（工艺，手艺）with Pride advertising campaign intended to influence the buying habits of American consumers.nAnother is the development of a quick response system,which emphasizes improvement of manufacturing techniques and reduction of time between the development of a new product and its intro

36、duction to the market.Such systems reduce inventory（详细目录）（详细目录）requirements,which are a major cause of financial loss for many textile and apparel firms.nIn recent years,the impetus(推动力，促推动力，促进进)for many of the changers in textile machinery and products has come from government concerns for environm

37、ental protection and human safety.nLocal,state,and federal regulations have been enacted to set standards for air and water pollution,solid waste disposal,worker safety,and consumer protection.nLack of landfill space for products such as disposable diapers will affect consumers choices nAir pollutio

38、n regulations address the types and amounts of stack emissions from plants.The fuels used for heat and processing and the volatile gases from chemical processing must be monitored and controlled.nWater and sewage discharged into streams are regulated as well.Most dyeing and finishing plants must hav

39、e inhouse facilities to pretreat discharges before releasing them into public waters.In some areas of the country,consumers are directly affected by the removal of phosphate detergents（磷酸盐（磷酸盐清洁剂）清洁剂）from the marketplace in an attempt to reduce algae(水藻，海藻水藻，海藻LG)growth in lakes and streams.nAtthefe

40、derallevel,pollutionregulationsareenforcedbytheEnvironmentalProtectionAgency(EPA).环境保护署nTheOccupationalSafetyandHealthAdministration(OSHA美国职业安全与健康监察局)isconcernedwithworkersafetyandregulatesexposuretoworkplacehazardssuchasnoise,dust,andmovingmachineparts.nTheclackingofshuttlesinalargeweaveroomfullofl

41、oomshasbeenreplacedbythelessintensesoundsofrapiers,projectiles,andjetsofwaterorairinsertingpicksinnewhigh-speedweavingmachines.nThenoisefromvibrationsofspindlesinspinningframeshasbeenreducedbothbymechanicalchangesinring-spinningandbythereplacementofring-spinningsystemswithopen-endsystems.nEnclosure

42、of machinery and modernization of materials handling systems in cottonspinning plants reduced the dust that had contributed to the condition known as byssinosis,or brown lung”.This reduction,along with systematic monitoring of workers breathing capacity,has lowered the incidence(发生率发生率)of the diseas

43、e.Equipment must now be enclosed and guard rails（横梁，（横梁，锭轨，钢领板）锭轨，钢领板）placed so workers and observers do not come in contact with some types of moving machine parts.nPain and diminished motor skills caused by repetitive body motions are being addressed during the 1990s.nThe Consumer Products Safety

44、Commission(CPSC美国消费品安全委员美国消费品安全委员会会)was created in 1972 to protect consumers in the United States from unsafe products.nSpecific regulations for the flammability of childrens sleepwear carpets,rugs,and mattresses have been enacted to supplement the original 1953 regulation,which prohibited the manuf

45、acture and sale of highly flammable fabrics for apparel.Toys,which often contain textile products,also are regulated by the CPSC.nWith the increased numbers of textile products available to consumers,labeling of textiles for fiber content and care is a necessity.The Federal Trade Commission(FTC美国联邦贸

46、易委员会美国联邦贸易委员会)enforces regulations for labeling many types of fabrics for fiber content,country of origin,and recommended fabric care procedures.TheFuturenIf automation progresses to the levels now being forecast,it is possible that by the twentyfirst century machines will operate continuously as th

47、ey now do,but with minimal human supervision beyond the eighthour work day.nRetailers and marketing personnel will have instant access to sales and production information through electronic data processing,with computer links between retailers and apparel and textile manufacturers.nThis textbook foc

48、uses on the major manufacturing segments of the textile industry(fiber production,spinning,fabric formation,and dyeing and finishing)and describes the properties of their products(fibers,yarns,and fabrics).nThe fabrics were decorative,useful,and durable.Looking ahead,the Textiles in the vehicle goin

49、g to Mars in 2019 will probably be lightweight,strong,heat resistant,and durable.nThey may be made of cellulose that has been carbonized.The yarn and fabric will be produced by highly sophisticated machinery;it is unlikely,however,that they will be decoratively dyed.nThe apparel and homefurnishing f

50、abrics of A.D.2000 probably will continue to contain brightly colored cotton fibers as well as more recently developed fibers.The cotton will be grown under more controlled conditions.The yarn and fabric will be produced on automated equipment,and dyes and finishes will be applied to produce an easy